Porchetta tonnata ($12) at Via Matta (79 Park Plaza, Boston, 617.422.0008)
Vitello tonnato is a Lombardese classic but a stateside antipasto non grata. There’s just something so ... un-American
about turning a particularly pungent fish into a condiment. But that’s the refreshing beauty of it: somehow, the delicacy of thinly sliced, cold roast veal is not only not lost beneath, but is highlighted by, a sauce puréed from mayonnaise, capers, lemon juice, and, yes, tuna. Michael Schlow and company replace the veal with pork loin and add dimension with a knoll of vinaigrettedressed watercress. Indeed, its elegant presentation is almost perverse, since its components have all the makings of sandwich filling, but you have to eat it with a fork. Damn you, civilization, with all your utensils!
— RUTH TOBIAS
PHOTO BY KELLY DAVIDSON